在今天刚刚出版的Economist “经济学家”杂志上刊登了一篇介绍目前西藏状况的文章,撰写得比较客观且文字简单。非常想介绍诸位,特别是那些在读ESL的朋友们,作为课外的阅读补充材料不失为最佳的选择。将为数不多的生词作了注解并将全文译成了中文以便诸位理解。由于时间仓促紧迫,漏译、错译之处在所难免,望大家包含和谅解。

Strangers in a strange land 在一块陌生的土地上的奇怪的人们。

A rare foreign visitor finds a Chinese tourism boom

一个很难在当地找到的外国参观者发现中国旅游业火起来了

Oct 13th 2012 | LHASA | from the print edition

20121013_CNP002_0.jpg

(图片为原文自带)

Say “Yak’s cheese” 说“茄子”

作者在这里用了两个词读起来就要咧嘴,为的是在照相时看起来像笑起来样子。而如果直译会让很多中国读者不明白,所以我把它直接译成了“茄子” 大家一看便知道是什么意思。

IN FRONT of the Jokhang temple at the heart of the Tibetan capital, excited members of a Chinese tour group pose in their new cowboy hats and snap photos to post on their microblogs for friends back home. Not far away, others pose in Tibetan garb in front of the Potala palace, traditional residence of the Dalai Lama. Many have experienced the recent Chinese pop-culture craze for things Tibetan, such as “The Tibet Code” (an historical thriller written in the style of “The Da Vinci Code”). Now they want the thrill of adventure travel themselves, and their numbers have soared, even as the number of foreigners visiting the region has declined.

在位于西藏首府中心地带的大昭寺前,一个中国人组成的旅行团中一群兴致勃勃的参观者戴上牛仔帽摆个姿势为的是随便拍几张照片贴到他们微博上给家乡的朋友们看。在不远处,有另外一些人穿上西藏民族服装站在布达拉宫前摆姿势拍照留念,布达拉宫曾是达赖喇嘛的住所。很多人都经历了最近中国流行文化对西藏人这些东西的痴迷,如: “西藏密码”(一部令人震撼的小说写作方式同“达凡奇密码”如出一辙)。现在他们追求的是自己亲身经历的冒险刺激,在外国人参观访问该地区数量下降的情况下,这类人的数量在剧增。

A ban on foreigners travelling to Tibet was in effect in the spring, part of an annual restriction during politically sensitive March anniversaries of the Dalai Lama’s flight to India in 1959 and the anti-Chinese riots in 2008. This year the ban was extended into the summer and autumn, as a series of self-immolations by Tibetans in protest at Chinese rule continued to roil Tibetan regions. Statistics for domestic visitor numbers are often misunderstood. They count the total number of times people check in at Tibet’s hotels, not the total number of visitors to Tibet. Visitors increasingly stay at several hotels. But, even counted in that way, the numbers tell the story: 8.4m Chinese tourists visited in 2011, up from 3.7m in 2007. Foreign visitors (counted in the same way) fell to 270,800 in 2011, from a high of 365,400 in 2007. In 2008 just 68,000 foreigners visited Tibet.

禁止外国人探访西藏是在今年春季实施的,部分原因是因为在1959年达赖喇嘛飞逃印度纪念日在三月份成为了明感政治年度禁令,还有就是发生在2008年当地藏人反汉人暴力事件。今年的禁令被延续到了夏季和秋季,像一系列藏人为抗议汉人统治所采取的自焚事件导致了西藏地区的骚乱。在统计国内参观人数上的统计常常令人误解。这些统计数字是基于人们在西藏住饭店的次数来计算的,而不是真正到西藏参观的人数。在数家宾馆居住访问者的人数在不断增长。然而,就算按住饭店的次数来计算也会告诉我们些什么: 2011年有840万中国人来这里参观,比2007年的370万人显然是上升了。外国参观者的统计也是如此2011年从2007年的365,400下降到了270,800。再2008年只有68,000外国参观者到过西藏。

Since 2008 security, already heavy, has increased. In the maze of streets surrounding the Jokhang, soldiers and police man checkpoints and carry out brusque searches with metal detectors and X-ray machines. Any Tibetan pilgrim wanting to pray must have his bags and identity card thoroughly checked by police. Many of the soldiers are armed, not just with guns but with fire extinguishers in case Tibetans set fire to themselves. There have been 54 immolations of this sort in Tibetan areas of China since last year. In May two young men set themselves ablaze in front of the Jokhang temple; one died, one survived.

自从2008年本来很强的安全措施力度加大了。在迷阵般的街道上有很多士兵和警察设的检查站对过往行人用金属探测器和X光机进行无礼的搜查。任何想朝拜的当地藏人都不许要经过警察彻查他们的包裹和身份证。很多士兵全副武装,不光是佩带枪械,还要配备灭火器以防藏人们放火自焚。自去年以来在中国的西藏地区已经发生这类自焚事件达54起。今年5月份,两个年轻藏人就在大昭寺前放火自焚,造成一死,一伤。


Many of the stores and market stalls near the temple are run by Chinese migrants. Tibetan-owned stalls tend to be shunted 有被欺负的含义,可译为被挤到。。。 farther away from the centre. A Chinese woman selling sunglasses at a stall just off the main market street is from the northern province of Shaanxi. Her husband and mother-in-law have a small stand nearby selling hats and trinkets小饰品. The Chinese manager of a café grumbles about life in Lhasa and the problems training his Tibetan staff: “They’re such a simple, undisciplined people.” Local Tibetans complain that domestic tourists tend to favour hotels and restaurants owned and managed by Han Chinese.

在宫殿旁边的许多商店和集市摊位都是由汉人开的。西藏人开的摊位给排挤到离中心地带更远的地方。就在这条主市场街旁边有个卖太阳镜的汉人女人是从陕西省北部来的。她的丈夫和婆婆在附近也有个小摊位卖帽子和小装饰品。一个咖啡馆的汉人老板抱怨他在拉萨的生活和培训当地藏人服务员的一些问题:“他们真的很蠢,有不听话 ”。当地藏人也是牢骚满腹认为内地来的旅客故意把好处都给了汉人开的饭店和宾馆。

Chinese restaurants are full in the evening, in contrast to the smattering of establishments catering to foreigners. A few foreign tour groups have been approved (tour companies with good connections can get around the ban), and the foreigners who do arrive are treated respectfully but with caution. They are allowed to travel to the other main cities of Gyantse and Shigatse, though they are watched carefully, and allowed to stay only in certain approved hotels. If there were unrest, the authorities fear, foreigners could document it and transmit it to the outside world. Bigger concerns, however, are the Tibetans themselves and their lingering anger.

比起零星的几座专供外国参观者开的饭店,汉人开的饭店到了晚上爆满,如此形成了鲜明的对比。一少数外国旅行团获得了批准(关系搞得好的为数几家旅行社可以破例)到达的外国人受到了尊敬的待遇可对他们警觉性很高。他们只允许参观其它几个主要城市,像孜以及日喀则市,他们只允许呆在指定的宾馆里,还受到严密监控。当局害怕如果发生骚乱,外国参观者会记录下来且把事件传到外面去。更大的担忧其实是藏人自身和他们持续缓慢的愤恨。

One foreigner-friendly restaurant, offering pizza and curry from English-language menus, was nearly empty; just a few German backpackers, and a couple of Chinese tourists perplexed by the Tibetan waitress’s inability (or unwillingness) to speak to them in Mandarin. “What will you have?” she asked them again in English. “The pizza?”

一个对外国人友善的饭店提供英文菜单,从中还能找到比萨饼和咖喱饭菜,然而生意惨淡几近全空;只有为数不多的几个德国籍背包旅行者和寥寥无几的汉人游客且被当地藏人服务员不能用普通话同他们讲话惹得很烦。服务员用英语反复问他们“你们要什么?”“要比萨饼吗?

(本文已被和谐,翻墙搜寻而成,编者按)

专业摄影

http://blog.51.ca/u-11149/2012/10/13/%E8%A5%BF%E8%97%8F%E7%9B%AE%E5%89%8D%E7%9A%84%E7%8A%B6%E5%86%B5-%E7%A6%81%E6%AD%A2%E5%A4%96%E5%9B%BD%E4%BA%BA%E6%8E%A2%E8%AE%BF/